The Moroccan Sahara occupies the south-eastern and southern part of the country, beyond the Anti-Atlas and the Drâa Valley. Two ergs concentrate most visits: Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, 560 km from Fès via the Midelt and Errachidia route, and Erg Chigaga to the south-west, accessible from Mhamid after 60 km of 4x4 track. Between the two stretches a more mineral Sahara, made up of regs (stony plains), hamadas (rocky plateaus) and linear oases such as those of Skoura, Tinghir or Zagora.

Erg Chebbi forms a chain of dunes 28 km long and 5 to 7 km wide, with ridges reaching 150 m above the surrounding reg. Erg Chigaga, more extensive but with lower dunes (60 to 80 m), remains remote from paved roads and retains a rawer character. Between the two, the Tisfoukin sebkha and the seasonal Lake Iriqui (dry most of the year) mark a transition band where a few nomadic families still pass through in winter.

The population of the Moroccan Sahara is primarily Amazigh (Berber) in the north, with a strong Sahrawi and Arabic-speaking presence further south, as well as Haratine communities descended from ancient trans-Saharan caravans. Merzouga, Khamlia and Tagounite preserve a living memory of the Gnawa, these musicians of sub-Saharan origin whose evenings to the sound of the guembri still take place regularly in Khamlia, 7 km south of Merzouga. The local economy rests on palm groves (Mejhoul dates from Tafilalet, harvested in October), extensive livestock farming of camels and goats, and over the past three decades tourism.

The landscapes are not limited to dunes. The road between Ouarzazate and Merzouga crosses the Dadès Valley and its earthen kasbahs, the Todra Gorges (a limestone canyon 300 m high, 10 m wide in places), then the Rekkam plateau before dropping towards Tafilalet. To the south, the Drâa Valley unfolds 200 km of palm groves between Agdz and Mhamid, dotted with fortified villages such as Tamnougalt and Tinzouline.

Desert cuisine is austere: camel tajine in certain villages, mechoui for special occasions, madfouna (the "Berber pizza" of Tafilalet, stuffed with minced meat and spices), and bread cooked under sand. Mint tea punctuates every encounter, often accompanied by dates from the last harvest. In Rissani, the souk on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday remains one of Maroc's most authentic rural markets, with its camel auction early in the morning.

Visiting the Sahara from Marrakech or Fès requires logistical commitment: distances are long, the road winding through the High Atlas via the Tichka Pass (2,260 m), and you must accept two days of transfers to reach the dunes. But it is precisely this distance that makes the place worthwhile: as you move away from the Atlas, human density drops, villages space out, and silence becomes a physical presence, particularly in a bivouac away from grouped camps.

To discover

Bivouac in Erg Chebbi. Night in a khaïma tent 10 km from Merzouga, after an hour on camelback at sunset. In the morning, climb on foot up the great dune for sunrise, temperatures of 5 to 10°C in winter.

Erg Chigaga via the Mhamid track. 60 km of 4x4 track from Mhamid, crossing the dried Lake Iriqui and arriving at the foot of 80 m dunes. Less-frequented area, minimum two nights on site to justify the journey.

Gnawa evening in Khamlia. Village founded by descendants of sub-Saharan slaves, 7 km from Merzouga. Concert on guembri, krakebs and drums in a family home, followed by tea.

Rissani souk. Rural market on Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays in the former Alaouite capital. Camel auction from 7am, Mejhoul date stalls in October-November, madfouna tasting.

Todra Gorges on the way to the desert. Limestone canyon 300 m high and 10 m wide in places, at Tinghir. Logical stop between Ouarzazate and Merzouga, one to two hours' walk in the dry wadi bed.

When to go

The comfortable window extends from mid-October to mid-April. Days then reach 18 to 25°C, nights drop to 5°C in January and can freeze at altitude above Boumalne Dadès. December and January offer particularly clear light but require warm sleeping bags in bivouac. March and November are the balance months: mild days, bearable nights, green palm groves.

Avoid June to August: temperatures regularly exceed 42°C during the day in Merzouga and Zagora, with peaks at 45-47°C, and even nights stay above 28°C. April-May and September are manageable but require organising walks very early in the morning. Rain is rare (less than 100 mm annually) but autumn storms can make certain tracks impassable for 24 to 48 hours, particularly in the Drâa Valley.

Practical advice

Allow a minimum of 4 days from Marrakech or Fès for a loop to Merzouga with one night in bivouac: two days of driving there and back, one day on site. To enjoy without rushing, plan 6 to 7 days, with stops at Aït Ben Haddou, in the Dadès or Todra Gorges, and two nights around the dunes. Erg Chigaga from Marrakech requires the same duration but via a different itinerary, via Ouarzazate, Agdz and Zagora.

The Sahara naturally combines with the South Valleys (kasbahs, palm groves of the Drâa and Dadès) in a continuous loop, and with the High Atlas via the Tichka Pass going in or coming out. A combination with the Imperial Cities (Fès on entry, Marrakech on exit, or vice versa) remains the most coherent itinerary for a first trip of 10 to 14 days. Bivouac comfort ranges from standard camps (collective Berber tents, shared facilities) to private camps with beds, hot showers and thick carpets. The region suits contemplatives, families with children over 6 years old, and travellers ready to accept long driving days to reach a rare landscape.